Trail Guide - BC Road Trip
Issue 59 / Thu 27th Jun, 2019
Ben Howells takes us on a trip of a lifetime through British Columbia, visiting all the classic spots and giving us the low down on how best to see the region. Expect north shore, rock rolls and plenty of loam.
British Columbia: the mecca of mountain biking, a huge network of trails of all kinds, the birthplace of a whole style of riding…probably worth a visit.
While you'd struggle to find a regular mountain biker who hasn't heard of Whistler Bikepark, there are countless equally fantastic locations scattered around BC – in the vicinity of Vancouver alone, North Vancouver, Squamish, Vancouver Island and Pemberton all offer incredible, varied riding no more than a few hours drive (and, in some cases, ferry ride) from the airport.
Grading of trails can be initially misleading, as rock slabs, massive roots, ladders, skinny sections, seesaws and other technical trail features are common (and incredibly fun), so you may find what is a black trail at home is a BC blue. Take a bit of time to adjust, put some effort in, and your technical riding ability will go through the roof in a matter of weeks.
Trails are generally well marked, both with trail maps at the bottom and markers at the entrance/exit of all trails. Trailforks and other apps are used extensively in BC and packed with maps and up-to-date trail information, so if you don't have one on your phone, make sure to download it and spend some time scoping the trails on offer at each spot – it allows you to pin down the location of those trail names the locals mentioned in the pub last night, and plan a decent ride with no prior knowledge of an area. In fact, a short browse over the BC area as a whole will quickly give you a rough idea of which spots to visit.
While Vancouver has a well-deserved reputation for rainfall, the summer months in the region can tell a different story, with sustained summer dry spells resulting at times in fire bans and access restrictions in the vast Canadian wilderness, not to mention dry and dusty trails. While this isn't good news for the firefighters trying to contain them or the communities affected, the lack of rainfall does make for hassle-free camping. Campsites are easy to come by across BC, whether you are carrying a simple pop-up tent to cram yourself and your bike into (as I did), or the absurdly massive camping wagons, towed by gas-guzzling 6-litre pickup trucks and blurring the line between 'caravan' and 'house'.
If you're of the tent/camper van variety, there's a great network of low-key campgrounds maintained by BC Hydro. Minimal facilities often offer little more than bear-proof bins for litter and a few compost toilets contained in plywood outhouses. However, with a lack of crowds, families and prices around $10-15 a night per spot (with space for multiple cars, vans and tents on each spot) they're a bargain. Arrive early on weekends as they can fill up fast!
More traditional options with running water, power and WiFi are easy to come by and include a reduced chance of a curious bear investigating that food you forgot to lock up outside your tent before going to sleep (don't do this - be sure to read up on bear-proof rules and regulations regarding food storage and disposal before arrival). Some, such as Adventure Camping in Squamish, include free uplifts in the price of your stay so you can start your day on the trails at the top instead of the bottom!
If you're planning on spending any time at all in Vancouver, the North Shore is an essential visit and somewhere you'll drive past on the way to Squamish and Whistler anyway. It offers the kind of riding you'd expect from an area that gave its name to a whole approach to riding in the early 2000’s. Technical routes abound both climbing and descending (although easier options cater for all ability levels), with a great variety of rocky, rooty options mixing in suspended ladder and log ride sections to test your skills and nerve. Easy to access from the city via car or public transport (buses are bike-friendly with easy-to-use racks mounted on the front of all vehicles), Mt. Fromme and Mt. Seymour are the focus of most of the marked trail rides and the most easily accessible. Although this being Canada and all, beyond these two popular areas there are plenty more marked and unmarked options scattered around the edges of the city, such as Cypress, Eagle and Burke mountains.
The local trail association, the NSMBA, is constantly maintaining the trails, holding dig days, and hosting bi-weekly $5 races through the summer (which also include beer, burgers and as many Clif Bars as you can scoff before the start line in the price!). There's a large community of dedicated riders getting out on the trails and you’re sure to meet a few friendly faces.
Squamish, or Slab City as I like to call it, offers some incredible opportunities to soil yourself in a totally new way – take on the double black routes for large, steep rock slab rides, best tackled in dry conditions as many offer no escape route or option to stop should you change your mind, spitting you out into high-speed chute exits. There's plenty of mellower, fun options, such as Rupert, to build up the confidence and adjust to a different kind of terrain, and if you fancy adding a bit of flow Half and Full Nelson will keep the grin on your face. Once again, there's a large local community and SORCA organises regular races and dig days.
No trip to BC would be complete without a visit to Whistler of course, if only to clear your wallet of all that hard-earned cash on overpriced accommodation and restaurants. That being said, there's a reason Whistler Bikepark is repeatedly voted the best in the world and it most definitely lives up to the reputation. Lift pass prices are reasonable, especially considering the lifts run until 8pm most days through the summer and there's further early bird discounts on multi-day and season passes if bought pre-season.
Beside the lift-accessed trails, there's plenty of pedal-accessed terrain starting in the valley and snaking it's way up to the alpine – the recently opened Lord of the Squirrels is a great way to punish yourself. Back in town some well-sculpted dirt jumps (refurbished at the beginning of the 2017 season), a huge skatepark, the aforementioned bars and restaurants and lakes mean there's no reason to get bored on down days.
Visit in August and you'll be subjected to the madness of Crankworx, with over a week of events, races, movies, trade stands and parties, culminating in Joyride taking place in front of a crowd of over 7000 trying to sneak beers past the attendants and climb trees for the best view of the whole course.
If the purpose-built, resort atmosphere of Whistler is getting a little too much, Pemberton is 30 minutes north and offers a relaxed, small-town feel. There are some superb trails, favourites being the committed rock chutes of Cream Puff and Meat Grinder.
If you feel like crossing some water, a network of ferries can take you to great riding on the Sunshine Coast and Vancouver Island. It's worth it for the views from the deck of the ferries alone, especially if you luck out on timing and are treated to a sunrise or sunset.
The trails start straight off the ferry on the Sunshine Coast (or within a 5-minute ride, anyway), and if you don't feel like pedalling, Sechelt on the Sunshine Coast is also the location of Coast Gravity Park, home to some of the smoothest flow trails you will ever encounter. While there are only 7 or 8 shuttle-accessed trails on offer, the care taken in the design and maintenance is second to none and the smooth berms lead the way to gaps, drops and jump lines that cater for all, but favour the more experienced rider.
Vancouver Island has an incredibly relaxed vibe, great scenery (take the drive out to the west coast town of Tofino if you have the time) and a whole bunch of riding opportunities, but you can't do much better than the small town of Cumberland. There are a few accommodation options, but the most conveniently located option is perhaps the Riding Fool hostel - set up for mountain bikers and conveniently located at the bottom of the trails
If you're craving alpine, high altitude riding, some trails remain unrideable until later in the summer when the snow has finally revealed the ground beneath. Beside temperatures in the mid-thirties resulting in a bucket load of sweat on every ride, the hottest months can bring the aforementioned forest fires and hazy skies. Not only can this mean reduced access, but also health hazards breathing in the smoky air, so plan your trip accordingly.
The number of options really is vast and we're just scratching the surface of a few key locations here. While Whistler alone has enough for a month-long trip without a hint of boredom creeping in, it's well worth exploring and getting out among the different trails, terrain and communities. Head further east into interior BC and you'll get to Kamloops, Revelstoke, Silverstar, Big White to name but a few. Heading south from Vancouver for no more than 40 minutes will bring you to the US border and into Washington State, where Bellingham and other popular destinations await.
Canada/British Columbia Info
Currency: Canadian Dollar $1 = £.055 / €0.60 Distances: Metric/KM - while Canada technically uses the metric system, weights and measures are often quoted in pounds and ounces, especially in bars and supermarkets. Language: English/French, although in British Columbia you're very unlikely to find a situation where French is necessary.
Airport: Vancouver International YVR Season Dates: Whistler Bikepark: Mid May to mid-October, open 10:00 to 20:00 every day in the peak months.
Coast Gravity Park: August 30th – May 15th Saturday and Sunday, May 15th – July 1st Friday-Monday
July 1st – August 30th Friday-Tuesday
Lower altitude options in Vancouver and Squamish can remain rideable almost all year, whereas some trails will be unrideable until late spring or summer when the snow has either been cleared or melted. May to September will offer the largest variety of riding options, but be aware of high temperatures and forest fires in the peak months. Be bear aware and read up on rules and regulations before your visit.
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By Ben Howells
