Steve Shannon heads to Vancouver Island to discover the lesser known areas of Cumberland and Hornby Island. Beautiful scenery, fantastic trails and super laid back locals all make up a fantastic area for mountain biking.

British Columbia is world renowned for its mountain biking trails. Vancouver Island is no exception with trails aplenty. Recently, the small communities of Cumberland and nearby Hornby Island have been rising into their own spotlight thanks to ambitious trail builders, a laid-back vibe and beautiful setting. With the alpine still locked up in snow, it was time for a road trip to see what all the fuss is about.

Getting There

Located in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, the Village of Cumberland is just south of the cities Courtenay and Comox. It’s about 100 kilometres north of Nanaimo on Highway 19, and just over 200 kilometres north of Victoria. If driving, there are daily ferries from Vancouver to Nanaimo and Victoria. If air travel is preferred, Harbour Air offers direct flights from Vancouver to Comox.

The riding season lasts pretty much all year. Winters are generally wet and muddy with a chance of snow on the higher trails. Summers can be a bit drier, but as it’s a coastal climate be prepared for wet conditions year round.

Cumberland

From very humble beginnings, Cumberland has grown into a mountain bike mecca in the last decade. The former mining town has seen a boom in recent years thanks to its incredible trail network and as a host of the BC Bike Race. Rolling into town, it’s immediately evident that this is a bike town. Dunsmuir Avenue, the main street in town, looks like a picturesque scene out of a movie, and it seems as if every building has a bike somehow incorporated into its decor.

Front and centre are Dodge City Cycles, the long time bike shop in town. It’s one of the main hubs of activity, and the shop is well stocked with parts. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and are happy to offer advice on where to ride. They also have a full fleet of rental bikes from Rocky Mountain, worthy of their extensive trail system. Be sure to stop in, say hi and grab a map of the trails.

Above DCC is the Riding Fool Hostel but don’t let the name fool you, this is more of a funky boutique inn than a hostel. Jeremy Grasby, the owner, has done a fantastic job renovating the heritage building into a beautiful place to stay. There are private rooms as well as dormitory beds and a large common room with a pool table. Plus you’ll find a fully equipped kitchen, which all makes the stay more affordable and a secure bike room means you’ll sleep easy knowing your bike is safe.

If you’re looking for a guide, look no further than Martin Ready at Island Mountain Rides http://www.islandmountainrides.com. Martin knows the trails better than anyone and can do everything from half-day rides to custom multi-day adventures. Be sure to give him a call.

The Cumberland Forest trail network sits on private land adjacent to town. As of January 1, 2016, the UROC (United Riders of Cumberland) has now signed a land use agreement with the landowners, legalising all of the trails and are now working towards a trail management plan. The logging companies that own the land are working actively with the club to co-exist in the forest and improve the recreational gem that the trail builders have created.

With a ‘no net trail loss’ strategy, any time a trail is logged, they either rebuild it or create a new trail of equivalent length to replace it. It’s a very positive relationship, and the future of the trails in Cumberland is looking bright. Mountain biking has grown so much that they’ve had upwards of 75 people show up to volunteer trail nights!

From Dunsmuir Avenue, it’s a quick pedal a couple of streets over to the trailhead. A maze of green and blue rated trails wind through the lower elevations, providing fun riding for all skill levels and a great warm-up for the longer and more technical rides. Be sure to check out Josh’s and Munday’s Child in the eastern block. The bridgework on Munday’s Child (named after the builder of the trail) is nothing short of amazing. The trail weaves through an ethereal world of giant cedar trees covered in electric green moss, lined with dense green foliage that makes it feel like a ride through the set of Jurassic Park.

There are a variety of ways to work up through the trails, connecting with the odd section of logging road. 50:1, Short Line and Steam Donkey are definitely worth riding. 50:1 is an excellent two-way trail with the lower section featuring bermed out corners and plenty of flow on the descent, while the upper section meanders through a sea of purple fireweed in open cutblocks (designated areas due for harvesting). Short Line and Steam Donkey follow an old rail grade, making for mellow climbing in the forest. They’re an excellent way to access Truffle Shuffle and Vanilla, two go-to trails that are must rides for anyone visiting. Vanilla represents the new school of flow and berms while Truffle Shuffle features a more technical descent.

For those looking for more technical trails, the upper reaches of the trail network deliver in spades. Thirsty Beaver, Bear Buns and Bucket of Blood are all worth riding. For a long, technical ride, connecting up to Furtherburger, Wookie Toothpicks and Queso Grande will crush even the hardiest of souls. The upper trails are littered with technical climbs, rocks and roots typical of coastal riding.

If you’re looking for a continuous descent, climb the Trent River Main FSR to Blockhead. Blockhead starts with flowing berms and jumps through an old cutblock, then descends into more technical rocks and roots in the forest. Connect on to Numbskulls to continue the descent with some steep rock slabs. The final part of the descent is DCDH, the course for the Island’s only downhill race.

For more gravity options, the Forbidden Plateau trails are a short ten-minute drive across the valley. The trails can be shuttled, or you can pedal up the 8-kilometre road. Starting below the abandoned ski hill, the trails snake through coastal forest and cutblocks down to the Puntledge River. There’s still a fair bit of pedalling on these trails making a 150mm trail bike the perfect choice. Start with a fast and flowy rip down Cabin Fever and Slither, and then follow that up with a ride down Iron Horse to Dust Witch on the second. There’s a maze of trails near the bottom, so choose your own adventure getting back to the parking lot.

Back in town, nothing beats a pint of local craft beer from Cumberland Brewing Company at the end of the day. Most of the local establishments have it on tap or go straight to the source on the corner of Dunsmuir and Third. For great eats, check out Biblio Taco, a new taqueria run by Greg MacDonald and Emilie Thy, both are passionate riders, and the locally sourced Mexi-Canadiana cuisine is incredible. There are plenty of other great options in town including Riders Pizza and the Waverly Pub. Wander along Dunsmuir Ave and check out the options!

Hornby Island

Though only a short drive and two quick ferry rides away, Hornby Island feels like another world. During the summer it feels more like a sub-tropical island than part of Canada. Quirky arbutus trees are abundant, and a vibrant arts scene adds to the island’s character. People have a laid back, carefree attitude that makes time slow down.

Accessed via the Buckley Bay ferry terminal 20 kilometres south of Cumberland, it takes two ferry rides to reach Hornby Island. The first crosses to Denman Island, which is followed by an eleven-kilometre drive to the eastern shore and the next ferry to Hornby. BC Ferries offers sailings throughout the day.

Accommodation options range from campgrounds to vacation rental homes. For camping, Bradsdadsland campground is a beautiful, family friendly campsite on the west side of the island. There are two other campgrounds on the island, Tribune Bay and Heron Rocks. Accommodation and camping can be fully booked months in advance during the summer, so plan accordingly. It’s possible to make a day trip, but staying on the island is well worth the extra effort.

The trail network is located on Mt. Geoffrey Escarpment Provincial Park. The trails are similar in nature to the island vibe with a laid-back style, generally smooth and on the easier end of the difficulty spectrum. There are multiple access points to the trails, making it easy to pedal right from your accommodation. Maps are available from the bike shop in the Ringside Market or using the Trailforks App.

Winding up through the beautiful forest drenched in vibrant green moss, it’s hard to concentrate on the trail. The green trails are generally old logging roads, providing wide, easy paths perfect to climb Mt. Geoffrey. From the top, the views of the surrounding area are stunning. Be sure to check out the cliff trail overlooking the western side of the island. From the top, descent options vary, but the favourite was 4 Dead Aliens to Test Tube followed by Chris and Brad’s and finishing with No Horses. This link up is fast and fun thanks to big berms and plenty of flow.

One of the unique aspects of riding on Hornby is just how smooth all of the trails are. This can be attributed to a very dedicated trail crew and a distinct lack of precipitation. Despite its coastal location, Hornby Island is dry enough to avoid issues with mud yet still retains enough moisture to hold the trails together. Combine that with energetic volunteers who spend much of the winter season working on the trails and it’s pure magic. Laps are relatively short on Hornby, so it’s easy to check out all the trails in one or two days.

An excellent way to split up the day is to stop by the Ringside Market, checking out the wares of the island artisans, then head down to Tribune Bay for some beach time and a swim. Restaurants are varied, but all serve great food, and there’s also a grocery store near the market. After a swim and some food, a quick pedal back up to the cliff trail affords incredible sunset views of Denman and Vancouver Island.

Back on Vancouver Island, there’s plenty more to see and do. Day trips to ride in Campbell River and Quadra Island are good options. If you’re interested in lift accessed downhill, Mount Washington Alpine Resort has recently re-opened for mountain biking. It’s located outside Courtenay, 40 minutes from Cumberland. There’s also great surfing and spectacular beauty on the west coast of Vancouver Island in the town of Tofino. It’s a three-hour drive to Tofino, making it a difficult day trip but a worthwhile overnight.

Overall, the riding in Cumberland and Hornby Island is certainly worth making the journey for. The varied trails provide days of excellent riding, and the laid-back island vibe and friendly communities will make you wonder why anyone would ever leave.

By Steven Shannon

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