The Enduro World Series may have been and gone, but James Swann headed out to Tasmania before the race came to town to check out the quality of the trails on offer. Freshly developed riding and a welcoming local community have put Taz firmly on the world MTB stage.

Something big is happening down under. No, let’s be more specific; something big is happening down under, down under.

A new mountain biking super power has suddenly appeared in the Southern Hemisphere, sending ripples through the Tasman Sea that are being felt as far away as the shores of New Zealand and across the Pacific to British Columbia. Mountain biking bastions of old are sitting up and taking notice of this quietly confident and good looking newcomer; the island of Tasmania.

An island off an island on the far side of the Earth, Tasmania has probably never even registered on most people’s radar as a mountain biking destination. Yet, as if it had been sprinkled overnight with a truckload of fairy dust this Antipodean outlier has sprung up trails and biking destinations of the standard that would make Northern Hemisphere riders blush with childlike excitement.

Once home to tin miners and farmers, North West Tasmania is evolving into a world-class destination for mountain bikers and has seen its fortunes change dramatically, as boarded up shops and empty pubs have been replaced with a boom in tourism since the feted Blue Derby trail centre opened in 2015. Where before there were only leftover hunks of mining equipment, relics of a forgotten era, there are now over 50km of biking trails that in complete honesty are good enough to rival similar riding in the French and Swiss Alps.

As recently as 2011 Tasmania was deemed to be ‘currently not at the standard available at other competing MTB destinations in Australia and New Zealand’, but since work was given the go ahead just a few years ago to develop sites like Derby the change has been nothing short of phenomenal.

Derby

The jewel in the crown of Tassie’s trails is undoubtedly the Blue Derby network at Derby (Brits, you’ll see a lot of familiar place names crop up down under, though not always pronounced the way you’d expect them to be). It’s here that Tasmanian mountain biking has been put on the map.

With over 50km of some of the finest trail available anywhere on the planet - and more trails being added all the time - this is the place to be for riding bikes right now. At first glance, this old town doesn’t give away its secret, but on closer inspection, the numerous new cafes, a bike shop, bike washing facilities and accommodation venues reveal a town fully geared towards riders and riding. This is a place on the up, and it’s all down to the trails that have been hewn from the surrounding hills. It’s nothing short of excellent.

From short, sharp descents down to the valley bottom on black diamond runs Black Dragon and Shearpin Lower, to long, meandering trail endeavours on the endlessly flowing Atlas, and the berm capital of the world on the peerless and grin-inducing Big Chook - this place will not disappoint. Whether you like your trails smooth, fast and tightly packed with turns or your style favours more challenging rock-strewn technical lines, Derby has you covered. Trails such as the black rated Shearpin sharpen the senses with a barrage of off camber slabs, drops onto wheel eating ruts and overhangs into the abyss of the forest below. It certainly focuses the mind and gets the adrenalin flowing.

The high level of detail and quality that’s been poured into these trails is evident right from the off. Swing a leg over your bike, stamp on the pedals, and you’ll soon be enjoying a plentiful dose of the incredible flow that has been built into these trails straight out of the car park. No immediate energy-sapping climbs for lucky riders here, just a rollercoaster of singletrack leading you from steady switchback climbs to grin inducing descents. A sign of considered planning and talented trail building mixed with a dash of typical Aussie good humour as natural wall rides and exposed rock slabs pop into view to keep you on your toes.

With uplifts on offer from the excellent Bus 2 Berms guys, we were able to pack in a good chunk of the rides on offer here, the local knowledge of the drivers ensuring we didn’t miss any of the venue’s best action.

Out on the trails, it’s easy to become immersed in the true isolation of Tasmania. A feeling of real adventure and a disconnect from the rest of the world takes over, almost as though you were travelling around a eucalyptus infused Jurassic Park, minus the velociraptors. Riding through temperate rainforest, passing beneath giant ferns and picking our way across huge swathes of exposed bedrock, all of the rides we did had the perfect blend of technicality, speed and flow, without ever becoming too rough or pushing us way out of our comfort zones.

The impeccable use of the altitude at Derby is perhaps what makes it stand out that little bit more from other trail centres across the world. The planning and building crews have clearly done their homework and made sure to get every last ounce of fun and flow from the terrain, without ever sticking riders on a straight line descent or climb. It was on the already legendary Big Chook trail that this was most evident, with easily half an hour of continuously rolling, twisting downhill singletrack rushing under our front wheels as though it would never end. Riders of all abilities will be able to achieve the zen-like state of ‘flow’ here.

“The trails are truly amazing; you feel like you’re in a dream swirling through the forests. That’s what brings people back, the flow; it’s so scenic, it’s utopia!”

- Michelle Rowe, Owner, Crank it Cafe, Derby.

Given the location of the trail head at Derby and the aspects of the trails, it’s not necessary to carry a sack load of kit on your back; food, mechanics and supplies are never too far away. But this being Australia it can get crazy hot, so don’t ditch the fluids and make sure you’re well sun lubed, particularly since the ozone layer over this part of the world seems to be on a permanent vacation.

The overriding feeling that we left the Blue Derby trails with was one of total and profound satisfaction. Satisfaction at having made the effort to get here, satisfaction at the mind blowing trails and infinite switchbacks - how could there have been so many, how could they have been that good, where had our arms and calf muscles gone? And finally, satisfaction at feeling so utterly exhausted after an incredible day of riding; the body pleading to stop as the mind urged us on to ‘just one more trail’.

If we still wanted more to do after all that, then the Juggernaut at Hollybank Reserve near Launceston, offers a 10km descent of epic proportions.

Maydena Bike Park

Not wishing to get left behind by the boom in tourism and distinct socio-economic benefits that mountain biking has brought to Derby, the island’s south is the next target for Tasmania’s talented trail builders, with a new bike park already under construction in Maydena, just over an hour north-west of Hobart. Developed by renowned Aussie trail builders, Dirt Art, Maydena Bike Park is due to be completed in early 2018. It will offer absolutely everything you could ever ask of a trail centre, with a regular uplift service, bike hire, cafe, bar, gear shop, and that’s before we even mention the trails!

With over 800m of vertical elevation on tap, Maydena will primarily cater to the island’s gravity fans. Packing in over 60km of trails across four runs, ranging from blue to double black, and incorporating flowing berms, jumps and technical features - there’ll be something for every rider and all abilities, with a 60km XC trail also on the cards for the near future, as if you needed another excuse to visit!

Hobart

The first thing you notice as you fly into Hobart is the diversity of terrain surrounding this historic city. Situated on the coast nestled amongst many bays, rivers and lagoons to the south and east, and beneath the dominant presence of the 1271m Mount Wellington (or Kunanyi, to the indigenous locals) to the west, Hobart looks and feels like the kind of place that mountain bikers will just love.

Perhaps unsurprisingly it’s on ‘the mountain’ that you’ll find some of the area’s best riding in the shape of the North South Track, an 11km bi-directional, multi-use route open to walkers and mountain bikers. The trail plummets along almost 600m of vertical descent back towards the north end of the city from well-marked parking areas, taking in jumps, berms and log rides along the way.

As at Derby this trail is best accessed with an uplift so you can enjoy the incredible flow and views on offer without having to worry about riding back up the fairly busy main road from Hobart.

The best way to describe this run is as being ‘dynamic’. It’s a fast paced upper body workout as the trail snakes its way abruptly between tightly bunched trees, demanding that riders stay over the front wheel in the turns and pump the trail for maximum speed. Flowing over, along and under huge fallen trees and across cobbled rock gardens the trail runs out at Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park where a dirt jump park awaits those with the necessary skills.

Our route took us back into central Hobart via a well-maintained commuter cycle path. Not the most scenic or challenging of routes home but a decent price to pay for a couple of hours of slaloming down the mountain.

Despite being a multi-use trail, it’s still a hoot on two wheels and as long as care is taken on blind bends riders will have a blast. The North South track also features a popular sunspot for snakes - and yep, they’re still poisonous even though you’re on a different island - so has an interesting gauntlet to run on hot days!

Hobart’s second biking destination is across the impressive Tasman Bridge on the east side of the Derwent River. The Meehan Ranges and Clarence Bike Park offer riders a healthy choice of short rides on a mixture of fire roads and trails, all of which can be explored and linked up to make a day of it.

Enduro World Series

It didn’t take very long for these Tassie trails to get the global recognition they so richly deserve, with the Shimano Enduro Tasmania having taken part as Round 2 of the EWS from 8th-9th April in Derby. This has further boosted the area’s stock, and it’s clear that the years of hard work and planning are now reaping the rewards for this old mining town. Could this be a template for post-industrial and rural towns across the world? Let’s hope so!

The Land Down Under ‘The Land Down Under.'

So, what’s the catch? Well, it’s clearly a bloody long way to come to ride your bike if you live in Europe, Canada or the US, but can the long haul down here be justified? I’d say so because with Tasmania you’re not just getting the great riding. This is an island that doesn’t just punch way above its weight when it comes to mountain biking but can run even its nearest neighbours close with its hearty offering of stunning tourist destinations, food and exquisite wild scenery.

As with the rest of Australia, there’s the consideration for the climate and the wildlife to think about, as there are snakes and spiders on the island. In our experience, however, (we stumbled over a few snakes, literally in one case) they’re far more scared of you than you are of them and they would rather get the F out of Dodge than bite or attack and risk getting injured themselves. The consensus is to stop, remain still and let the snakes slink off as their eyesight is pretty bad. That said, it’s recommended that a compression bandage is carried just on the off chance. Luckily, bites are extremely rare and fatalities even more so. Spiders? We didn’t see any, so you’re on your own there! Just don’t go ferreting around inside tree hollows. The sea? Sharks. Nah.

Climate wise, Tasmania can blow hot and cold. The winter can present water-based challenges to riders attempting river and stream bed riding and even the mid-summer evenings can get pretty chilly quite quickly, even after a scorching day. Luckily, plenty of natural sun protection is offered by the cool, shaded woodland in which most of the trails are situated, but it’s still strongly advisable to slap on plenty of factor 50. Just don’t allow your sweat-drenched brow to get it in your eyes! Few things will spoil your fun as fast as not being able to see while wanting to scratch your eyes out.

Travel considerations within Tasmania, as for mainland Australia, centre around planning for fuel and water stops. The conveniently fuel-stationed Europe this is not, and making sure you’re aware of fuel stops and their opening times on your route will save you a night in the back seat (no, we didn’t). Unlike the excellently signposted biking trails, the road signs can be pretty mystifying, often signing junctions after the turn. Go figure. Nail that, and you’re just left with the stunning scenery and beautiful evening sunlight to enjoy.

The ‘island off an island’ packs so much into its shores with vineyards, incredible seafood, fishing and whale watching trips available at every turn. Add to this Tasmania’s amazing number of distilleries producing some of the finest whisky and gin; then there’s the beaches and the views! Not too shabby to say the least. Like the forgotten love child of New Zealand and Australia unceremoniously cast into the sea, this southern rock is a truly unique place.

Once you’ve made the long pilgrimage down there, the island is your oyster, with the major trails being situated within a few hours drive of each other. If you’re thinking of heading over, then it’s worth allowing an absolute minimum of two weeks to make sure you cover all the trails and still find time to enjoy the beautiful coastline and best of the views on offer from the island’s incredible national parks.

The place on the bottom of the globe is on the up. You’d better get packing.

Huge thanks to Damo and Jacob at Bus 2 Berms for sorting us out with uplifts, route advice and beers. You won’t get better guides: bus2berms.net.au

Eternal thanks also to Nathan at Nathan Chilcott Visual for beers, riding and fun. He takes pretty good photos too!

As well as hugely helpful and friendly staff, you’ll find great trail food, bike hire, bike wash, accommodation and the strange sounding but oh-so-good beetroot chocolate brownie at Crank It Cafe, Derby: crankitcafederby.com

Want to know more about the trails? Check out these sites for microscopic levels of detail into riding Tasmania:

- http://www.ridetassie.com
- http://www.ridebluederby.com.au
- http://www.tassietrails.org

 

Videos

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Blue Derby MTB Trails TWISTIES Video from World Trail
Blue Derby DAMBUSTERS from World Trail
By James Swann
Originally from Sheffield, James lives and works in the mountain bike mecca that is the Lake District and has been falling off bikes since he was six. In between working on bike events, riding bikes, racing bikes and writing about bikes he enjoys talking about bikes with anyone who will listen. He really likes bikes.

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